Day 5. Lautenbrunnen, Brienz, Gruyeres

Schilthorn (2960) and his restaurant was not interested at all (on the cable car ride, eat with a view of the peaks or in the fog … well … not as lucky a lot of honor. So we decided to stay in Murren (1645): as usual for the top cable car, walk down. This is an extreme station from which you can still go down on foot. Early in the morning was an amazing blue sky, no clouds, but as long as breakfast sandwiches and twisted (what we’re doing fairly quickly), there was light clouds, but sometimes … it certainly alarmed, but did not stop …

In order to reach the gondola station of departure, must pass all Lautenbrunnen, leave right Staubbachfall (once at the end of the village), whom he admired even by Goethe, he devoted his work in “The Song of spirits over the waters» (“Gesang der Geister über den Wassern”), then slightly on the left Trummelbachfalle (the only glacier waterfalls in the world, which are located inside the mountain, you can get there by underground funicular railway). Pointers to the waterfalls there. Then drive to the village Stechelberg, there is a large pay parking …
In short, we have not developed with mountain walks in this day and cloudy, and rain began to fall, and all these troubles happened over some time. And it’s not surprising: the weather in the mountains is changing very rapidly. In office work kind aunt, who pointed to the monitor, which display an image from the camera to the top: the only living creature that would come into ecstasy by what he saw was a hedgehog would: lol:. We are all together (well, not a hedgehog, of course) complained about the weather, clouds, fog and rain, got advice to “come back tomorrow,” a little poidiotnichali on “and when will you understand?” The reply was, “as agreed” and pointed out to us at the sky. Yeah … day is not given in the morning. For some time thinking and go “negotiate” on Rothorn. As the distance from Lautenbrunnen weather changing before our eyes: and the blue sky appeared and the sun is hot.

On the shore of Lake Brientskogo got to Brienz, in the parking lot opposite the station left the car (6 francs for 3 hours). The train runs on schedule, the first in 07.30, then approximately 1 per hour, the last in 16.36. Rothorn terminus. Journey time approximately 1 hour. The cost of round-trip ticket 80 francs.

So far got to the top of the picture has changed dramatically … Yeah, the day is not given in the morning …. And so it had a great time, soaring in the clouds, watching sometimes Brientskoe Lake (pictured at left in the corner), and more clouds. In fact, many hiking trails on the Rothorn, planned and walk and walk down the descent, but was lost along with the appearance and mood of the research, so after dinner (60 francs), in the universal longing went down, tambourines something about each other, about overpopulation, about that as well live in one place for several days, about the cheese that smelled wonderfully socks from the bag Englishman.

Already at the bottom it was decided to spend a day on the road. Even at home read the rave reviews, even more likely not reviewed, and an entire ode (s) lock Gruyeres. Not long hesitation, moved to his side: the castle is not like it, so eat fondue (wild men): Well, of course, more to do and what really nowhere to eat fondue for not more than 60 kilometers. The way was through Jaunpass. We generally prefer to tertiary roads. : Smile:

Actually, it’s all the emotions: shock:. On examination of the castle + town about an hour was enough time. It is extremely tourist destination. We watched with Natasha at each other with the same facial expressions: “What her where the medieval streets, where gas lamps …” … The only thing like it in the lock, so it shields on the wall

Okay … now … Little fondue restaurants, where you can eat a great many, by the way on the same street as the castle, all designed for tourists, including, of course, and price. You can withdraw a little deeper into the countryside. Almost every restaurant makes its own cheese, if desired, you can buy.

Later in the afternoon made a couple of goofy gestures and the night came back. Tomorrow watch the weather and take another attempt to get to closer Murren.

Day 4. Altdorf, Goscheneralpsee, Gelmersee, Thun, Lautenbrunnen

Intended route even before the trip was worked out so that the physical map of Switzerland could draw on their own, but, nevertheless, every evening to play a solitaire of times and looked for secondary and back roads, looking for the lake and the lack of information about them. Thus from Altdorf we got to Goscheneralpsee on the way to your favorite Furkapass-Grimselpass. This place is at the end Goschenertal, which turned into Goschenen. I must say that in Switzerland, the quality of any road is excellent, be it highway or country road forgotten by God (although, if the road and forgotten by God, then continued his great creations come back: it is very difficult to find a road where you will find few cars).
The road to the lake is infinitely good.

Not far from the campsite on the shore Goscheneralpsee flowing river from the lake. There is paid parking is something about a franc for 1 hour. Around the lake a lot of hiking trails in the surrounding mountains, route maps can be taken in Information.
And the resume. Lake as the lake water as water, but the surrounding views, the lack of crowds, beautiful road …-goal position, uniquely-goal))
And yet good roads. More precisely clinged nor how many they are, how many pictures around. And again, I can not help but speak out in favor of the machine. Were many heated debates, it is better and more comfortable: a train or a car … For myself, decided to clear: the car (although the fluctuations were, there was some clouding of the mind and the pathological desire to shabby suitcases, but thank God, was it before the trip). Because the presence of the machine – this is freedom … .. freedom of decision-making and the ability to adapt to the changing situation, the possibility does not depend on the schedule. And driving through mountain passes, often feel almost morbid desire to stay … to stay at least a little. The only negative: only in the evening ;-) : lol:
But how to get past:))

Maybe there are among us people with strong nerves, but we do not belong to them, so for an hour touched, looking at the marmots. This is a mini-zoo (where, except for groundhogs, rabbits, and even some animals) at the intersection of two passes and Furkapass Grimselpass.

There are hiking trails and of course, so if you prefer, you can ascend or descend on foot, but before going I was very traumatized leg, and so the first time moved a little lame, so use a freebie.
…. And the fish in the lake really is, moreover, it is also caught and very tasty (with words) … Pleased with the German launched a backpack and showed us the pieces 7 large bright fishes.

Day 3. Sustenpass, Triftgletscher, Sustenpass, Altdorf

Getting to Triftgletscher became an obsession after accidentally found a good online video German couple about yourself and the path to the rapidly melting glacier. A pair of very blended harmoniously into the surrounding landscape and not annoyed. Subject every interest. Then the site was found, where you can find photos, 1948, 2003 and 2006, taken from the same place, which show that in 1948 the lake was not in sight, and the place to be on the bridge was a great thickness of ice blocks. Total 58 years … Now the glacier length of 2,5 km (compared to 22km in Aletchskim) with an average width of 600m. Some believe that the cause of glacier in global warming … maybe so. Glacier tongue hajkery used to walk to Trifthuette on the other side, but after the ice has melted over the precipice built a bridge in 2004 and a length of 101.6 meters, he was, and its height above the river flowing from the lake under the glacier 70m. That’s the whole story. To get to this point, you can Sustenpass, where between Gadmen and Nessental is

There’s also sold tickets (22 francs from both sides), up (well down) can 11do 18. Here you can take scheme route. (Free, of course). Tickets look like small laminated card with the time. Free parking opposite. In the cabin funicular climbs strictly eight adults. You can go down and under their own power (the second time I regret the lost opportunity, the descent goes through the forest, takes 2 and 2.5 hours from the top of the funicular track despite some prefer). As usual at the upper station cafe with prodigious pastries, beer, coffee and sausage (0.5 + beer cake-12 francs). Place really beautiful. To maintain a permanent bridge lift (a total of about 600 m from the starting point), not difficult, but too tedious, takes 1.5 hours one way, everywhere signs. From the Bridge (1800) to Trifthuette (2521) an additional 3 hours. There are a couple of routes.
Himself seemed rather bland Sustenpass not caught the beauty of the surrounding landscapes, or complex, but once you can drive.
Not far from Wassen on the pass there is a lake Steinsee, the picture looks good, life is sad. From it you can get to Steingletscher. Judging by the number of cars in the parking lot, the place is also popular.
And in the evening were the rain and Altdorf. The history of the city is inextricably linked with the legend of William Tell, which is reminiscent of the frescoes on the buildings and statue of Tell in the central square in front of City Hall. Who does not remember – will tell. So. This whole saga took place in this city. The town itself (although there before 9000tys population, and in Switzerland, the city considered the item with a population of 10,000) left a good impression, in spite of heavy rain: quiet, calm, nesuetlivy, tourists at least.

Day 2. From Stein-am-Rhein to Luzern

The first purpose-Stein-am-Rhein. Planned to come earlier in the day, but … wander through Munich and Germany, arrived just at night, so the city set aside for the morning. The town is small, the river is divided into 2 parts: historical and contemporary. In modern and float before the eyes of the monsters of glass and concrete … nothing like it of course does not (a general in Switzerland we have not seen).

Before the historical part is the parking, and 9 and after 19, it is free, in the city by car do not pass, the entire medieval part of the pedestrian and quite tiny. The place itself is itself amazing, unique: with its narrow cobbled streets, the smell of fresh coffee and pastries, with cafes on the streets, confectionery, unhurried conversation with the locals by reading newspapers and flowers, flowers, flowers … in fact as well as throughout Switzerland. In this city, a feeling that you’re in a fairy tale or in rehearsal or in some mystery and wants as quickly as possible to absorb its flavor, imbued with his life, because all this surrounding beauty now disassemble and carry away and you do ever you will not see …. But in time, comes a sense, no … rather an understanding that everything around him is real, that was, is and will remain long after you and that’s when you can sit in a cafe, drink a cup of coffee at a clock on City Hall to watch the passers-by and be a part of .
The town is mentioned for the first time in 1007 when he was a small fishing village and moved there the Emperor Henry II, because he liked it very much these things strategic position. Walk around the city and feel like in the gallery: you can stop almost in front of each house.
That which rises in the distance, this castle Hohenklingen, still the antiquity (1200g), although it now a restaurant, next to parking. If desired, you can walk, but uphill, can be reached by car in the summer on Mondays does not work.
To walk well enough 2.5 hours, returned to the hotel for breakfast, then bought a vignette at the pump (40 francs) and headed towards Neuhausen (4,5 km from Schaffhausen) to Rheinfall. There are several parking lots, all paid. Many years ago, this waterfall has resulted in ecstasy Karamzin: “My friends, imagine a large river, which … with indescribable noise and roar down and overthrown in the fall of his turns white foam boiling. Finer sprays types of waves, with unparalleled speed flying don after the other, a myriad of rising up and up milky cloud of damp, dust, impenetrable to the eye. ”

But … then there really a lot has happened since then is really hot summers, but the most powerful waterfall flat was not surprised by anything. Maybe worth it for the thrill to swim to the boat, but then woke up the inner voice and ordered to be evacuated in a matter of urgency on this swarms coaches. Of course, I love watching the water, fire, etc., but I prefer to do it alone, and when the next is not distributed in all languages: “Man, I take off a boat in the background.” And then …. I do not want to offend anyone, after the Norwegian waterfalls … Oh well.
The path chosen through the pass Klausen (turned out to be dull and uninteresting, just a few twisty sections, a fairly wide road): Well, who could be surprised by such Swiss scenery). It was the most efficient way possible to avoid cities still went for nature.
And here is a pastoral time and again, but for us it was the first day in Switzerland, and almost all pleased.
In Altdorf turned towards Luzern, but because it was the middle of the day, in the city decided not to go: and it is hot and a lot of people, so opted to go in the direction of Engelberg (before you reach it is not stopped in Oberrickenback) on Bannalpsee. While we were and stopped, got into a little accident day gradually turned into a 5 pm and we stayed the last cable car to the lake, time of 1.5 hours and the descent back (the ticket on the funicular to both sides of 16 francs).
The lake lies at an altitude of 1587m, you can walk around the unhurried pace of about 2:00 (sound track), if you want you can go to the restaurant on the beach and have lunch. Unfortunately, we had only the desire, but it was not in stock at 2:00 around the lake, as well as to sit in a restaurant to take a look at it and the surrounding mountains, was ahead of Luzern. Paid covered parking in the center near the train station cost us 7.5 francs for 3 hours. The city certainly is good and we spent almost 4 hours and it seemed to us a little. He is recognizable, his images are fused in a single variety of kaleidoscope of impressions. He has his own character. Of the thousands of photos always correctly extract the few where you wandered, sat on the bench or in a cafe … No, 4 hours, even shame for such a city. Now I would like to see it in the morning and evening, to see what he, in the light of lights at night as it changes in autumn and winter falls asleep. Very romantic city. It does not feel the hustle, you’re sort of in the crowd and at the same time by itself, enough of the place and the air. A stunning city. And this despite the fact that I, like any other cave-dweller: smile:,
I do not like the city in panic … really do not like, preferring all types of mountain scenery.

For first: Idea.

How we decided to travel to the Switzerland

Do not try to grasp the immensity
Apparently even before going to need a great inner work and make a leisurely savor any country, to enjoy himself staying there and not seen by the number of beauties and attractions, as described in guidebooks. In the country to live, let it be a week or two, but they need it to live, feel, and not be a temporary guest, fotoohotnikom for sightseeing.
Critical of guides
There are good, there are bad, there are pictures with or without them, but they have one goal-advertising. I do not call just to give them up (well, one must read what is on the night)), but treat them more than critical.
As possible to live long in one place, making the radial attacks
At this time lived in five places, getting it into the mountains, in the city, which was very convenient. Hotels booked through Booking.com, called in the evening. There was no desire to waste time searching the hotel every night and live out of suitcases (something went to live in the country), and then is relatively long when you live in one place, the next day you meet a distinguished guest: discuss your plans, you get valuable advice and not everything in this spirit, but most importantly more … living in one place you give yourself a chance to get the maximum pleasure to see almost everything that surrounds you. There is no such situation: “Well here come back next month, year, century … always look … rising to mountains …. if rain is not,” and you will do tomorrow or the next day. Removing the lyrics, it is also practical for a stay in the hill country (very changeable weather) today in the mountains do not you get (cloudy, rain, and few things are as yet), tomorrow also no luck, but on Friday, what should be
We must walk
It does not matter, you stroll in the city or in nature. It is easy to walk … and not hastily, as if this place is going to spend all my life. Go into the alleys or barely visible trail, stop … and then again go further or not to go … And if you walk around the city, it is best to do this in the morning or just at night when few people
We flew to Munich, the same place in the city (not the airport) take the car. And here the first nightmare. But who could imagine that in class A we get a monster mini cooper. Employees Sixt ohreneli when we try to look like stuff our 2 suitcases in the trunk) not really! After some simple mathematical calculations and by adding a rear-seat luggage finally turned in the car. The machine is absolutely wonderful performance at the autobahn, but it passes …. The first day turned out totally clueless in the endless throwing of Munich (buy, finally, the navigator), then stop in the small German cities and, of course, I had to call in via Konstans, then another something shorter … not given)